THIS EDITION of Fashion News includes the vinyl/pvc shopping bag micro-trend, the supposed death of avant-garde clothing brand Vetements, wicker as an enduring spring trend for three years running, and why Virgil Abloh’s appointment at Louis Vuitton matters.
This past fashion month, besides beastly dad sneakers, checks (still) and generous proportions, you may have noticed, clutched in the hands of editors, stylists, fashionistas and street style stars alike: clear plastic bags from the likes of Céline and new brand Staud. Céline’s, a vinyl creation resembling a lowly grocery shopping bag save for the brand’s logo emblazoned across the front, is not available for purchase online, but was made available at the brand’s Nordstrom pop-up in Seattle, where it retailed for $590. Staud‘s pvc and leather creation (some with crock-effect) is available online for $210, but is continually sold out everywhere. Whether you’re a fan of the trend or think it preposterous to spend that much on plastic, one thing is for certain — it has everyone talking.
2 Years After They Broke the Internet, It Looks Like Nobody is Buying Vetements
It’s hard to pinpoint an exact date the Vetements craze started, but October 7, 2015 was the day the world stood up and really took notice. Just six days after Vetements’ SS16 show, where Gosha Rubchinskiy walked in that DHL T-shirt, Demna Gvasalia was announced as the new Creative Director of Balenciaga. Gvasalia was a relative unknown outside of the Paris scene, and Vetements itself was originally styled as an anonymous collective, although Demna would soon emerge as the brand’s figurehead.
However, what comes up must come down and recent seasons have been pretty quiet for Vetements. The brand moved its HQ to Zurich and even pulled out of the schedule for one season, forgoing a SS18 runway show in favor of a low-key presentation inside a parking lot in Paris. Gvasalia continues to wow the world with his work at Balenciaga, but recent collections for his own label have tread familiar territory, often reworking pieces from previous seasons …
Wicker handbags, like the classic trench, have become a spring staple. No longer just for the beach or picnics in the countryside, the (rather rustic) basket bag has become a city essential. For the third year in a row, the basket bag is still spring’s favourite accessory, and it’s not difficult to see why — made of straw, seagrass, corn husk or other natural materials, the wicker handbags are versatile, working just as well with blue jeans as with a billowy eyelet summer dress. Click here for a few of our favourite basket bags this season.
As the disruptive designer is made artistic director of the French luxury house’s menswear division, we outline what it means for fashion and culture today
As fashion houses go, Louis Vuitton is among the most established – but today it announced the appointment of fashion’s newest phenomena to head up its menswear division as artistic director: Virgil Abloh. “Virgil is one of the few designers who truly marries street culture with high fashion – and the first black designer to be given such a position in the gilded halls of LVMH. His appointment is a step in the right direction for diversity, as well as a particularly exciting creative moment for the industry,” British Vogue’s Editor-in-chief, Edward Enninful, commented on the move.
News 05.12.23: Five Essential Articles from Around the Web
During a reading project I undertook to better understand the “third wave of democracy” — the remarkable and rapid rise of democracies in Latin America, Asia, Europe and Africa in the 1970s and 80s — I came to realize that this ascendency of democratic polities was not the result of some force propelling history toward its natural, final state, as some scholars have argued.
Holiday Inspiration: All Tied Up in a Bow, Part Two
WHEN WE wrote about our holiday table setting inspiration featuring ribbon bows (with a little design history included), we had no idea just how many areas⏤from fashion to food and more⏤the bow (define as a specific decorative arrangement of material such as satin, organza, silk) has been adorning.
OUR FIRST Christmas film this year wasn’t actually one of our usual old favourites (Christmas Vacation for P, The Holiday for me⏤although we’ve seen them both so much now that we mainly put them on as background ambience), but The Holdovers…