Hair Talk: 3 Haircare Professionals Answer our Questions

For as long as I can remember, one of the most common compliments I’ve received is not, surprisingly, about my style, but about my hair. Over the years I have invested a lot of time and care into it and all I can say is that today my hair is healthy and I have managed to find a healthy routine for it. There are days when it’s hot and I am in a hurry and all I want to do is chop it off, but as my hairstylist says, it’s part of who I am and it is kind of my signature. Today, I’ve brought together three of my favourite people in the hairstyling industry to answer a few questions and to share some of their favourite haircare tips and products with you. I hope you find it helpful. —Dana

Ciara Costenoble, hair stylist and educator, is an American based in Paris. She has been styling hair for over 14 years and her knowledge is way beyond a short conversation, but here are a few of her thoughts on hair today:

What are your current favourite styling products?

I am loving the Aveda Sun Care hair products which are perfect for summer holidays. It’s like SPF for the hair. The protective hair veil is my go-to summer finishing styling product.

One holy grail haircare product?

A good thick rich hydrating conditioner!! The Amika Triple RX always wins!

One mistake people are unknowingly doing with their hair?

Sleek ponytails have come become very popular and the daily tension really wears on the hairline causing breakage around the hairline. Opt to keep some face-framing hair out of your ponytail and wear a tight, pulled back look less often.

What can we do in order to take better care of our hair and build a healthy routine for it?

Add in protein hair treatments every other month to rebuild the structure of your hair from the inside out. Add more Omega 3s to your diet for stronger and healthier tresses. Scalp care is so important—properly cleansing your scalp, and even a scalp exfoliating treatment once a month to remove product build-up, is wonderful for your scalp and hair.

What’s your go-to quick fix for a bad hair day?

I love silk scarves. It instantly looks chic and covers the madness of a bad hair day.

Check out more of Ciara’s work on her instagram @ciaracoiffure and website.

I also asked my own hairstylist, Léa Caminade, here in Paris, what her thoughts on the subject were and here favourite products this season and here are her answers:

What are your current favourite styling products?

My favourite styling products are: a salty water spray, which adds a raw and natural effect for messy hair that looks like a vacation hair style but in the city; the hair resort spray by Kevin Murphy with refreshing touches of citrus essential oils; the Kevin Murphy Shimmer Shine, which provides highlights and shine to all hair types; the Color Wow Extra Shine Spray is a must have too.

One holy grail haircare product?

Shu Uemura Art Of Hair Essence Absolue. I always have a bottle with me: it protects from the heat, tames frizz, moisturises and protects from the sun. (Small tip: apply a generous amount before shampooing—it will make an ideal pre-care.)

One mistake people are unknowingly doing with their hair?

A fatal mistake and often the principal cause of split ends is not to use heat protectant, before drying or straightening your hair. On average, a hair dryer heats up to 90° C, so it is essential to protect your hair from heat. One of my favourites is Kevin Murphy’s Heated Defense in mousse form—it has an ultra-light formulation that will suit all hair types. Apply it generously to damp hair along the entire length and work it out with a comb or brush.

What can we do in order to take better care of our hair and build a healthy routine for it?

A healthy routine starts with a good shampoo. Choosing the wrong shampoo for the nature of your hair can ruin an entire routine. The first thing to identify is the nature of your hair: whether it is thin or thick, or problematic, such as dry, or damaged, etc. Only after you determine the needs of your hair will you be able to choose a suitable treatment.

My secret: once a week when I shampoo, I leave it on for 10 minutes, then finish with a conditioner. Thanks to its acidic pH, the shampoo closes the scales of the hair and in this way, you are caring for the heart of the hair.

What’s your go-to quick fix for a bad hair day?

A little dry oil on the lengths for shine and dry shampoo on the roots. I also like to do a pretty bun with some messy locks on the edges.

For more personalised information, you can contact Léa here.

Anthony has taught me so much about my hair over the past few years, and even though I don’t have the chance to see him as often as I would like with him being based in Nice, I did managed to ask him a few questions about his thoughts on hair, products, and routines and here his answers:

What are your current favourite styling products?

My favourite styling products are Christophe Robin Sandalwood Day Cream, a silicone-free, light and delicately-scented day cream for hair. To give texture and volume, the Couleur Gaia Spray Salin embrun, a sea salt spray, for a guaranteed beach effect in a fresh minty scent.

One holy grail haircare product?

A combination of Gaïa Green Clay Detox and Christophe Robin Prickly Pear Mask.

One mistake people are unknowingly doing with their hair?

The use of straighteners and curlers of all brands will cause the gradual destruction of hair. Once hair becomes dry and damaged, only the gradual increase of the temperature on hair straighteners can style it, so it becomes a viscous cycle. Hair is round, and when you use straighteners, it gets crushed and heated between two metal plates. The usage of these devices even once a week will cause the diameter of the hair to gradually shrink, disintegrate, and eventually fall off. Getting rid of those straightening tools and heat curlers is the best way to take care of your hair! A much less aggressive methods for styling hair is with a round brush and hairdryer.

Frequent washing! Hair will lose volume if it greases quickly, and the more you wash your hair, the faster it gets oily. The sebaceous glands naturally produce sebum, which is supposed to nourish and protect your hair. These glands under the scalp produce more sebum to compensate for excessive washing, which leads to a disruption in these glands.

My advice is to do a Gaia green clay cure (Montmorillionnite clay) and reduce shampooing your hair to 2 or 3 times a week, which will help put your scalp in equilibrium and will also remove silicone build up and excess sebum, which in turn, will help you to reduce the frequency of washing and will lead to a healthier scalp.

What can we do in order to take better care of our hair and build a healthy routine for it?

As much as possible, avoid silicone products that form a plastic film on the hair; clay cures will absorb and remove all traces of these silicones. Only in extreme cases (burnt and uncombable hair) can you justify the temporary use of silicone, which does not heal the hair in any way but will create the illusion.

Applying natural oils (avocado, jojoba) as a serum, leaving it on overnight each time before washing your hair. Reduce or eliminate the use of iron hair straighteners, and curlers of all brands.

What’s your go-to quick fix for a bad hair day?

Massage a few drops of vegetable oil into your hands, then straighten your hair with your hands (mainly the ends), tie it up, and the day after your shampoo, it will be perfect.

P.S. A word of advice for all: before going to your hairdresser, whether you know him or not, show him photos of which end results you want for your hair: everything from colour, to the cut, and the shape (style) that you’re looking for. 50% of your leaving from the hair salon satisfied depends on you. Come to your hairdresser looking your best. Style your hair how you usually do it, do a shampoo the day before or the day itself—your hair should be showing the best of itself. This will inspire the hairdresser and for him to be more precise on doing balayage, highlights or an ombré, this is essential. But above all, always have your hair cut before adding highlights, as you don’t want to cut them out after; this is especially important for people who want to go blonde. Highlights, balayage and ombrés depend on what hair cut you already have.

You can follow Anthony @niceltp or visit his website