FOR QUITE some time, we had intended to visit Primrose Hill, the charming neighbourhood in northwest London nestled between Camden Town and Regent’s Park. However, it was the opening of a new bagel shop on Regent’s Park Road that proved to be the incentive we needed to finally make the excursion. Primrose Hill refers not only to the residential district itself but also to the eponymous hill, which offers stunning panoramic vistas of the London skyline. It was at the end of January when we ventured there, and we did climb the hill (it was freezing) to take in the beautiful view. Besides the bagels, the other draw was to see the pretty 19th-century townhouses, tall and narrow, adorned in pastel shades of pink and buttercream, baby blue and pale yellow. With their high windows and lofty ceilings, the houses of Primrose Hill echo the Regency architecture of the grand mansions in neighbouring Regent’s Park.
History
Steeped in history, the area dates back to the 16th century when it was part of the Royal Hunting Chase of Enfield. In the 19th century, Primrose Hill became a favoured destination for Londoners seeking fresh air and green spaces. The district has been home to many notable residents over the years, including artists, writers and musicians, lending it a distinctive bohemian character. Today, Primrose Hill is a coveted place to live, with a strong sense of community, a variety of amenities nearby, and excellent transport links. From stunning vistas over the capital to the boutique shops at its centre, the neighbourhood strikes a perfect balance between city life and quintessential London village charm. Just a short stroll from Regent’s Park Road, there is an array of independent cafés, restaurants and organic food shops catering to the discerning tastes of locals; this vibrant thoroughfare forms the heartbeat of the largely traffic-free urban village. Merely two minutes in the opposite direction lies Primrose Hill park itself, offering panoramic views encompassing the London Zoo. For those seeking to explore further afield, central London is but a 40-minute walk away through Regent’s Park.
A Modigliani at the Tate Modern in Southwark (the fourth-most visited art museum in the world)
Above, left: Just a short stroll from Regent’s Park Road, there is an array of independent cafés, restaurants and organic food shops catering to the discerning tastes of locals.
A Lichtenstein at the Tate Modern in Southwark
An Yves Klein at the Tate Modern in Southwark
The bagel shop was opened in September by Dan Martensen, a New York photographer who began selling his ‘New York-style’ bagels out of Caravan in Islington before finding a permanent home in Primrose Hill. I opted for the lox bagel while P chose the dill, but unfortunately, they were only okay. The issue may have been that due to some technical reason, they did not have everything bagels or any other seeded variety available, only plain ones. Moreover, the bagels were not toasted, and well, let’s just say that as connoisseurs, we found them to be overhyped.
Passing by St. Paul’s Cathedral on Ludgate Hill at the highest point of the City of London, on the way to Primrose Hill. The present structure, which was completed in 1710, is a Grade I listed building that was designed in the English Baroque style by Sir Christopher Wren. The cathedral is one of the most famous and recognisable sights of London. Its dome, surrounded by the spires of Wren’s City churches, has dominated the skyline for over 300 years.
