HAD INTENDED to share this article much earlier, but it simply fell by the wayside amidst my busy schedule. No matter though—the timeless Fair Isle sweater is never not in style. Fair Isle is a traditional knitting technique used to create patterns with multiple colours. Fair Isle sweaters are a type of knitwear using this technique, which originated from the Fair Isle, a remote Scottish isle nestled in the stormy seas between Orkney and Shetland. These sweaters are known for their distinctive patterns, which typically feature intricate designs with multiple colours. Fair Isle sweaters first emerged in the 19th century as practical caps and jumpers for fishermen, decorated with lively motifs to brighten the dreary northern climate. By the 1920s, these complex yet cosy sweaters with their distinctive geometric designs had gained appreciation from a wider audience.
With its characteristic geometric patterns and muted colour schemes, the Fair Isle sweater has long been a perennial favourite in royal fashion. Fair Isle knitting gained considerable popularity when the Prince of Wales (later King Edward VIII) wore Fair Isle jumpers in public in 1921, bringing the style into the mainstream fashion spotlight. The sweaters became fashionable leisurewear, especially among the British upper class, and were worn for outdoor activities like golfing and hunting.
During the mid-20th century, Fair Isle sweaters experienced another surge in popularity, particularly in the United States, thanks to iconic figures like the Duke of Windsor and celebrities such as Grace Kelly, who were often photographed wearing them, further solidifying the Fair Isle sweater as a timeless and classic garment.
The history of Fair Isle knitting can be traced back several centuries. The technique of stranded colourwork, which is used to create the patterns in Fair Isle knitting, likely originated in Scandinavia and was brought to the Shetland Islands by Norse settlers around the 8th or 9th century. Over time, this technique evolved and became uniquely associated with the Fair Isle. Fair Isle has since been adopted as a general term for multicoloured knitwear, but there are still small numbers of garments produced on the island from patterns which have been handed down through generations.
The traditional Fair Isle patterns typically feature small repeating motifs, often inspired by nature, such as flowers, animals, and geometric shapes. These patterns are created using a technique called stranding, where two or more colours of yarn are carried along the back of the work while knitting, with the unused colours being stranded across the wrong side of the fabric.
Fair Isle sweaters are typically made from wool, particularly Shetland wool, which is known for its warmth, durability, and softness. Traditionally, these sweaters were hand-knit by skilled artisans on the Fair Isle using local wool. However, today, they are often machine-knit or produced in factories, although handmade Fair Isle sweaters are still highly prized for their craftsmanship and quality.
1980—Princess Diana wearing a burgundy Fair Isle cardigan, paired with a ruffled blouse and pinstriped skirt.
The intricate art of Fair Isle knitting has been continuously practiced for generations on the remote Scottish isle that lends it its name. True Fair Isle garments can be identified by their distinctive patterns, no matter where in the world they may travel. Each knitter on the island interprets traditional motifs in her own style, choosing from a treasured archive of patterns passed down through the years. Even today, Fair Isle sweaters are hand-knit in the round using double-pointed needles, locally known as “wires,” along with a padded knitting belt.
While fashions have come and gone, the classic Fair Isle sweater has remained popular through the years. Beloved for their complex designs, cosy comfort, and connection to heritage craftsmanship, these sweaters are a timeless wardrobe staple. Their intricate beauty links the present to rich knitting traditions stretching back through the generations on Fair Isle.
May 1981—Lady Di wore a neon Fair Isle sweater, green corduroy trousers, and Hunter wellingtons at Balmoral Castle with her then-fiancé, Prince Charles
