IN 2009 VIRGIL ABLOH was an intern at Fendi with Kanye West. Before that, he was a DJ at a wine bar the midwest. Yesterday, the 38-year-old father of two made history with his debut menswear collection in Paris as the first African-American in the role of creative head at Louis Vuitton, prompting InStyle to dub him "the Meghan Markle of Fashion". The Ghanaian-American engineer/architect/DJ/designer/Ikea collaborator (who prefers not to be labelled) has been the artistic director of the French fashion house's men's wear collection since March 2018.
Karl Lagerfeld's decision to transform the Grand Palais in to a formal French garden with climbing roses on trelliage, pergolas and water fountains was a welcome site on these January days. There were layers of ruffled tulle and embellished chiffon in pastel hues, feathery capped sleeves and crystal veils and of course, the traditional Chanel tweed, all ushering in a return to the age of innocence and a feeling of spring in the air ...
THE MAGIC OF PARIS FASHION WEEK is as unfailing and ubiquitous as the legacy of the maisons that hold their shows there since the late 19th Century. Take Dior, now helmed by the first female creative director in the house's history — Maria Grazia Chiuri — and her feminist looks that storm down the runways. Or Saint Laurent, which under Anthony Vacarello continues catering to the cool nonchalant Parisienne. However, under the great fashion week shakeup, new faces are migrating from London and New York to the French fashion capital.
"I WANTED TO CAPTURE that happy, elated feeling of self-expression," said Emilia Wickstead backstage after her spring/summer show, staged at a London Art Deco location that few people knew about. The Harlem Renaissance was the inspiration, and while it could have been reflected with more diversity on the runway, it was certainly in evidence in the clothes. There were wide sunhats tied at the chin, calling to mind those worn in the fields, paired with demure silhouettes and dropped hemlines. There were plays on transparency, perhaps what a modern It girl would like to see more of, especially when paired with some 'mom' jeans and white t-strap heels. There was a pink drop-waisted dress with an alluring cut-out at the chest. And then, of course, the sequinned gowns in rose gold that seemed to be emitting light, drawing smiles on showgoers' faces. Who doesn't love some glamour, especially amidst all the turmoil happening in the world?
Karl Lagerfeld's Chanel Resort 2018 runway show, entitled La Modernité de l’Antiquité, brought ancient Greece to the Grand Palais in Paris. A bust of Venus that sat on the fireplace mantle of Coco Chanel’s Rue Cambon apartment was said to be the inspiration behind the theme. There were Ionic column–heeled gladiator sandals and pottery painted column dresses, and by the end, there were fluttery bias-draped gowns embellished in gold, flowing tresses befitting of Venus, pinned backed by golden headbands made for goddesses ...
HIGH UP ON THE SANTA MONICA MOUNTAINS IN LA, large tents were set-up, and a bonfire burnt as two hot air balloons branded Sauvage settled in the sunset. An unlikely location for a Christian Dior show, but a reasoned one. Mr. Christian Dior, after all, visited Los Angeles in 1947, while today, the house has formed relationships with many Hollywood stars, who appear frequently on the red carpet costumed in Chiuri’s signature taffeta gowns.
If you loved the Saint Laurent Fall 2017 RTW collection, you will adore this one, for the Isabel Marant Fall 2017 Ready-to-Wear collection has the same rock n' roll vibe, but with a little more feminine refinement typical of the designer. There were ’90s supermodels Amber Valletta and Carolyn Murphy, and '80's statement pieces (think oversized earrings, metallic finishes and rhinestones), and pretty ensembles consisting of ruffly silver tops paired with crystal-encrusted denim. There were big-shouldered blazers cinched with wide leather belts and paired with glittery shoes, ruffly mini skirts with super-tall over-the-knee boots and an altogether perfect wearability in a collection tinged with a little sexiness for good measure.
GUILLAUME HENRY is said to have been inspired by the American Wild West for the Nina Ricci Fall 2017 Ready-to-Wear collection in Paris, siting the Ricci woman a traveler enamoured with the notion of the "urban cowboy". There were silver-tipped and pointed collars, bolo ties and shearling, but thankfully, these rodeo-style adornments were more of an aside to the expert layering of corduroy, leather and lace, the pale shades of dusky rose and daffodil, the shimmery cowl-neck day dresses and perfectly tailored blazers and belted coats ...
