I CAN’T remember the last time I was excited for a runway collection. Perhaps it was the pandemic, with its cancelled shows and digital presentations, that dampened my enthusiasm for fashion. But the Carven Spring 2024 Ready-to-Wear collection, by British designer Louise Trotter, has changed that.
Carven, the French fashion house, was founded in 1945 by Madame Carmen de Tommaso—professionally known as Madame Carven—at 6 Rond-Point des Champs-Élysées in Paris. Initially catering to petite women like herself who struggled to find elegant couture for their smaller frames, Carven’s designs quickly gained popularity for their youthful, fresh appeal, a stark contrast to the more rigid and formal styles of the era. Madame Carven was known for her innovative use of lightweight fabrics such as lace and pink gingham, and for being one of the first couturieres to launch a prêt-à-porter line. Notably, she was also the first Paris designer to patent a push-up bra, further cementing her legacy as a pioneer in fashion. Though Madame Carven retired in 1993, she would continue to influence fashion well into her later years, passing away in 2015 at the remarkable age of 105.
Throughout the 1950s and ’60s, Carven expanded its reach internationally. Marie-Louise Carven’s innovative use of fabrics and patterns, inspired by her global travels, pioneered a worldly approach to fashion. She deftly wove elements from diverse cultures into her designs, setting a new standard in the industry. The brand also garnered renown for its perfumes during this period. The 1946 launch of “Ma Griffe” (My Signature) was particularly noteworthy. This green floral fragrance not only captivated with its scent but also employed a unique marketing strategy—samples were dramatically parachuted over Paris, cementing its place in fashion history.
In the 1970s and 80s, Carven diversified its portfolio, introducing ready-to-wear collections, menswear, accessories, and additional fragrances. While the brand’s international presence grew, it faced mounting competition and struggled to maintain relevance in the rapidly evolving fashion landscape.
The late 1990s and early 2000s saw Carven grappling with financial difficulties and a waning position in the fashion world. Despite multiple changes in ownership and management, each attempting to revive its fortunes, Carven’s profile remained subdued compared to other major fashion houses.
A pivotal moment arrived in 2009 with Guillaume Henry’s appointment as creative director. Henry breathed new life into Carven, adopting a fresh, modern approach that focused on contemporary, accessible designs while preserving the house’s original ethos of elegance and femininity. His collections garnered critical acclaim and captivated a new generation of fashion enthusiasts, marking a renaissance for the venerable brand.
Guillaume Henry’s departure in 2015 ushered in a period of creative flux for Carven. Alexis Martial and Adrien Caillaudaud briefly took the helm as co-artistic directors, building on Henry’s success. Their tenure, however, proved short-lived.
In 2017, Serge Ruffieux, formerly of Dior, stepped into the role of creative director. His collections aimed to meld Carven’s rich heritage with a forward-looking vision. Yet, despite these creative efforts, financial challenges continued to plague the house.
The brand reached a critical juncture in 2018, filing for bankruptcy. This crisis led to its acquisition by the Chinese group Icicle, now known as Icicle Carven China France (ICCF). This pivotal shift marked a new chapter for Carven, as it sought to reestablish itself in the global market under fresh leadership, with a renewed focus on quality and sustainability. In February 2023, Carven appointed Louise Trotter as its new creative designer. The Sunderland-born talent, fresh from her role at Lacoste, brought a wealth of experience from her stints at Gap, Calvin Klein, and the British label Joseph.
Her debut collection for Carven is nothing short of inspired. Trotter’s vision seamlessly blends sophistication with wearability. The collection features an array of sheer skirts, voluminous tops, and jackets, complemented by flat mules. It exudes a clean aesthetic, pairing smart tailoring with an undeniable cool-girl vibe. What sets this collection apart is its effortless chic—a quality that brands like The Row aspire to, and that echoes the ethos of old Céline and new Phoebe Philo. Trotter has deftly struck a balance between timeless elegance and contemporary vision, reinvigorating the Carven brand with a fresh, relevant aesthetic.
