THE MAGIC OF PARIS FASHION WEEK is as unfailing and ubiquitous as the legacy of the maisons that hold their shows there since the late 19th Century. Take Dior, now helmed by the first female creative director in the house’s history — Maria Grazia Chiuri — and her feminist looks that storm down the runways. Or Saint Laurent, which under Anthony Vacarello continues catering to the cool nonchalant Parisienne. However, under the great fashion week shakeup, new faces are migrating from London and New York to the French fashion capital. Altuzarra presented his spring/summer 2018 collection here for the first time, as did Tom Browne, Proenza Schouler and Rodarte. And while the world seems eager to draw our attention to one crisis after another, impossibly so, creativity among designers is ripe. And so, the best moments in Paris, from Céline’s positivity to Natacha Ramsay-Levi’s debut at Chloé. — Victoria.
GIAMBATTISTA VALLI’S ITALIAN LOVE STORY
The Italian designer swapped typically opulent décor for a starch minimalistic backdrop, and toyed with lingerie and floral prints to present a cool collection for the more free-spirited part of the upper-class circles.
NATACHA RAMSAY-LEVI’S CHLOÉ GIRL
The Nicolas Ghesquière apprentice now helms the billowy and romantic house of Chloé, and her début did not disappoint. Tailored leather outerwear, painted cotton dresses, and a velvet suit embroidered with chevaux, all made for a bohemian collection imbued with a modern touch.
CÉLINE DOES IT AGAIN
Putting all the rumours swirling around Céline —and her tenure at the fashion house — at rest, Phoebe Philo proved that, once again, she knows best. It’s a wardrobe that every editor and working woman was swooning over. After all, who else could combine a leather trench coat with tracksuit pants and ‘dad sneakers’ and make it look chic?
ALTUZARRA RETURNS
“Our boy is back!” must Paris be chanting. Indeed, Joseph Altuzarra was born and raised in France, but has shown at New York Fashion Week since his debut. His return, though — both a homecoming and a coming out party — didn’t mark any changes in his collection. After all, the man knows his woman; she’s his alter ego. This season the Altuzarra girl is dressed to the nines in intricate beads, pairs shearling vests with billowy dresses, and throws on a broderie anglaise shirt dress like it’s nothing. Herein lies her power; sexuality is not overt, but covered behind the sheer veil of sophistication.
VALENTINO’S GOWNS
Pierpaolo Piccioli said he wanted “to make the ordinary extraordinary” in his spring/summer collection, and so he did. The house of haute romance reaffirmed its presence with a sportswear-infused collection and a dozen of final looks comprised of sheer and sequinned gowns that are a dreamer’s dream.
VIRGIL’S TRIBUTE TO DIANA
Steering away from his logo-laden streetwear looks, Off-White’s Virgil Abloh (who’s having a moment, what with all the collaborations and rumours swirling around future stints at Louis Vuitton or Versace) paid a beautiful tribute to Diana, the people’s princess, by putting his personal twist on her signature ensembles, from those biker shorts to her ballgowns.
